Tuesday 7 October 2014

Craig Fonvuick - Killiecrankie A small hill with a huge view

Tenandry Kirk
For all the times we have walked in this area we have just never got around to walking up this hill until now. What fools we have been as the views are magnificent from the trig point on a slightly dull and cloudy day like today. On a clear, crisp, blue sky day must be even more outstanding. Once again proving the point that you don't need to go too high to get views that make you smile.
Go that way
This walk is a circular route so you have a couple of starting options and also decision re walking clockwise or anti. We started at the Tummel Bridge car park and I would suggest you do likewise but I don't think that you will be disappointed whichever way you go. The walk took us about 3 hours 30 minutes but we did stop a lot to take in the views.

There are no obvious way-markers at this point so off we went following the trampled dirt path through the trees and quickly ended up on a tarmac road. Hmm is this correct. On we went up the road, climbing gently and I did have my doubts about whether we should have been walking round the other side of the hill. This minor back road soon brings you to a lovely church and graveyard with the impressive manse across the road. For a small place they looked after the minister well. Even in its heyday you wonder who this was for as the main town of Pitlochry is not really far away, even by horse and cart. A little bit of research and I found that indeed it was built as a 'chapel of ease' to assist the surrounding community which numbered around 800 and apparently the kirk can hold half of them. The church is called Tenandry and supports commonwealth war injured. A fund raising poster by one of the injured soldiers talks about being damaged but not broken, makes you stop and think, well done son.
Further on we come to a signpost taking us into the off-road path to the hill which comes with its own warning notice.
The fresh dung tells us that there are coos about so all senses alert just in case. The track follows the edge of the fields before crossing a stile to go up the hill. The coos, a nice herd of Highlands, were a bit further away in the field, some stood up to look at us but the most important thing was that the bull was disinterested, fine with us.
Path climbing through trees and bracken
Once across the style the path goes through a mixed wood and ground covered in colouring ferns, very pleasant. Just ahead a red squirrel popped onto the ground jumping off a broken stone dyke, had a look around and scampered back up a tree. The little blighter always hovered around the back of the tree watching us watch it.
The path climbs and takes you round the side of the hill towards the area I thought we should be going up. I was brushing spiders webs from my face so we were the first walkers on this path today. There is a fine sheltered meadow where you can imagine the deer lying for the night but none around today. A ruined steading indicates people stayed up here at one time.
As we neared the summit a pair of black grouse took to flight quickly followed by another pair. Its been quite a few years since I have seen a black grouse so this was a very nice surprise. A small trampled track leading through the heather takes you to the trig point at 413 metres.
Trig point Carn Leath behind
At the summit your eyes are immediately drawn directly ahead to Ben Vrackie and the pass coming down from Vrackie to Killiecrankie. Turn slightly left and you are looking north at the scarred track leading steeply up Carn Liath with its companions Carn nan Gabhar and Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain tucked behind. These 3 mountains are all 'Munros' and are usually bagged on the same walk if you are fit enough.
Turn further left and the hills of Glen Tilt come into view, the estate of Blair Atholl is vast. Look right at the trig and you are looking due south over Loch Faskally and its caravan park, looking towards Perth. This is just a beautiful view and on another day it would be a grand spot to sit and enjoy your picnic.
The A9, Faskally loch & caravan park
On the descent the views look north towards Blair Atholl and in the distance Cairngorm, all in all glorious fertile scenery, surprisingly green considering the lack of rain but colourful as the leaves on the trees start to turn their ambers, yellow and gold. I was hoping to spot some deer on this walk but no such luck.
Looking south near the summit

It is a straightforward descent which leads you to an old stone bridge over the River Garry at Killiecrankie. Looking north the river was running better than I thought considering the dry spell and the salmon would cope with this ok towards the end of their epic journey. Looking south I spotted a salmon leaping out of the far pool and Lynn then drew my attention to a salmon on the rocks below. 
Sad end to a long journey

The salmon has a big chunk out of its neck and back, what a shame it was a big fish and looks as if it has a soft belly full of eggs. Look at the size of that tail!!! I can only guess but I suspect it was an otter that killed it. It had to be something big enough to drag a fish like that out of the water. Hopefully not a fisherman who had killed and left it. You never know.
River Garry looking upriver from Killiecrankie
A short walk up the hill through the village of Killiecrankie brings you to the soldiers leap. The story goes that a soldier leapt across the ravine at the River Garry at this point to avoid his pursuers. If true it was some leap as the distance is 18 feet.
There is also a salmon leap at this point and we were lucky enough to see a small salmon, probably a grilse, make two unsuccessful attempts to get up the river, it would succeed later no doubt.
Looking downriver and the pool the salmon leapt

There is a visitors centre run by the National Trust here at Killiecrankie which is free to enter and also handy if you want a break or some refreshments. 
We continued up the path along the side of the River Garry. Some late season anglers were trying their luck for the salmon. It is a beautiful stretch of gorge river and with a bit of scrambling some fine pictures and views to be had.
Overall a very pleasant undemanding walk which I am certain will be repeated.
As we went towards the car park we could hear music and screaming. Not murder but bungee jumping from below the road bridge into the gorge below. Not for the faint-hearted, one young lady backed out at the last minute after peering over the edge, I don't blame her.

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